Textiles and Fashion (IGCSE Art & Design 0400)
Learning Objective
Develop the knowledge, skills and critical understanding required to plan, produce and evaluate textile or fashion outcomes that meet the Cambridge IGCSE Art & Design assessment criteria (Objectives A‑D).
Syllabus Alignment – Quick Reference
Syllabus Requirement How It Is Covered in These Notes
1. Skills & Techniques – hand‑sewing, embroidery, printing, surface‑treatment, mixed‑media (and related processes)
Comprehensive Skill Checklist lists each technique, now expanded to include knitting, non‑woven construction and basic pattern drafting.
2. Knowledge & Understanding – fibres, processes, cultural/social factors, genres, intention, research, reflection
Sections on fibre properties, finishing media, a detailed “Genre & Style” table linked to historical periods, a glossary of specialist terminology, and explicit guidance on research, citation and reflection.
3. Research & Investigation – recording observations, visual research, organising information
Ready‑made research template, a sample filled‑in worksheet, and a citation guide model the syllabus language “record their own experiences and observations from first‑hand and secondary resources”.
4. Safety, Ethics & Sustainability
Dedicated safety checklist, risk‑assessment worksheet, and sustainability considerations (material sourcing, durability, end‑of‑life).
5. Assessment Objectives (A‑D)
Summary table of criteria, a sample rubric with band descriptors, and a peer‑critique checklist aligned to A‑D.
Key Concepts
Properties of natural, synthetic and blended fibres.
Selection of media and techniques that suit the intended outcome.
Formulating a clear design brief and intention.
Systematic research, visual experimentation and documentation.
Construction, finishing and embellishment methods.
Critical evaluation against the IGCSE assessment objectives.
Health & safety, ethical sourcing and sustainability.
Materials & Media
Category Examples Typical Uses
Natural fibres
Cotton, linen, silk, wool
Garments, woven fabrics, hand‑embroidery
Synthetic fibres
Polyester, nylon, acrylic, rayon
Activewear, printed textiles, technical fabrics
Blended fibres
Cotton‑polyester, wool‑acrylic
Balanced performance, cost‑effective fabrics
Non‑woven fabrics
Felt, interfacing, bonded polyester, recycled PET non‑wovens
Interlinings, accessories, experimental panels
Finishing media
Dyes, pigments, screen‑prints, appliqués, beads, fabric paints, laser‑etched patterns
Colour, texture, decorative effect
Glossary of Specialist Terminology
Term Definition (relevant to IGCSE 0400)
Bias cut Cutting fabric at a 45° angle to the grain to give stretch and fluid drape.
Selvage The finished edge of woven fabric that prevents fraying.
Dead‑stock Unsold or surplus fabric that can be repurposed for sustainability projects.
Grading Scaling a base pattern to produce multiple sizes.
Overlock Stitch that simultaneously sews and finishes raw edges, often used on knitwear.
Smocking Fabric manipulation that creates decorative gathers, usually stitched.
Skill Checklist (Syllabus Mapping)
Technique Syllabus Phrase Typical Classroom Application
Hand‑sewing – plain, French, flat‑felled seams
“use a few appropriate skills such as hand‑sewing”
Stitch a simple shirt front or a pocket.
Machine‑sewing – straight‑stitch, overlock, cover‑stitch
“use a few appropriate skills such as machine‑sewing”
Construct a skirt or a zippered pouch.
Knitting – hand‑knit jersey, machine‑knit rib
“appropriate skills such as hand‑sewing, embroidery, printing, surface‑treatment, mixed‑media” (knitting is recognised as a core textile technique)
Produce a swatch for a knit‑wear prototype.
Non‑woven construction – felt, bonded interfacing
“mixed‑media” (where fabric is altered)
Create a structured bag panel or experimental collage.
Pattern drafting – basic block, grading, technical flats
“use a few appropriate skills” (drafting is essential for garment making)
Develop a flat for a simple skirt and grade it to two sizes.
Embroidery – surface, counted, free‑hand
“embroidery”
Decorate a fabric swatch or cuff.
Appliqué – fabric, felt, leather (stitched or glued)
“appliqué”
Create a layered motif on a tote bag.
Screen‑printing – hand‑cut stencil, block, digital screen
“printing”
Print a repeat pattern on a T‑shirt.
Dyeing – fibre, yarn, piece dyeing (immersion, tie‑dye, dip‑dye)
“surface treatment”
Tie‑dye a scarf or dip‑dye a woven panel.
Fabric manipulation – pleating, gathering, smocking, fabric‑cutting
“mixed‑media” (where fabric is altered)
Produce a pleated panel for a skirt.
Up‑cycling – re‑purposing existing garments
“mixed‑media” and “sustainability”
Transform a T‑shirt into a tote bag.
Digital design tools – CAD, 3‑D garment simulation, laser‑cutting, digital printing
Emerging digital techniques (relevant to modern textile work)
Design a pattern in Adobe Illustrator and print digitally.
Emerging Digital Tools (Optional Extension)
CAD software (CLO 3D, Optitex) – create technical flats, pattern grading and virtual draping.
Laser cutting & engraving – precise cut‑outs for avant‑garde garments or accessories.
Digital textile printing – high‑resolution, on‑demand prints directly from a computer file.
3‑D scanning & body‑measurement apps – generate custom fit data for bespoke pieces.
Social & Cultural Influences
Understanding the wider context enriches the design brief and informs material choices.
Traditional textiles – Japanese shibori , West African kente , Indian block prints.
Contemporary movements – streetwear culture, gender‑fluid fashion, sustainability activism.
Economic & ethical factors – fair‑trade production, local craft economies, fast‑fashion impact.
Historical periods – Victorian (corsetry, heavy drapery), 1920s Art Deco (silk, geometric prints), 1960s Mod (synthetic blends, bold colour), 1990s Grunge (up‑cycling, distressed finishes).
Genre & Style Table
Genre / Style Key Characteristics Representative Designers / Movements
Haute‑Couture
Hand‑crafted, intricate construction, luxury fabrics, often historically inspired
Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen (early collections)
Streetwear
Casual silhouettes, graphic prints, logo‑driven, youth‑culture references
Supreme, Off‑White, Virgil Abloh
Sustainable / Eco‑Fashion
Organic/recycled fibres, zero‑waste pattern making, up‑cycling
Stella McCartney, Patagonia, Fashion Revolution
Historical Costume
Period‑accurate fabrics, construction methods, decorative techniques
Costume departments, reenactment groups, designers such as Ruth E. Poole (Victorian)
Tech‑Wear
Performance fabrics, modular design, utilitarian aesthetics
Acronym, Nike ACG, Y‑3
Design Development Process
Interpret the brief & define intention – write a concise purpose statement (e.g., “Create a versatile, climate‑responsive jacket for 15‑25‑year‑olds that celebrates urban street culture”).
Research & Record Observations – complete the Research Template (see below) and attach a sample filled‑in worksheet for reference.
Generate ideas – mood boards, colour studies, fabric swatches, and digital sketches.
Develop technical drawings – flat (technical) drawings, pattern blocks, grading notes, and optional 3‑D garment simulation.
Prototype / Mock‑up – construct a test garment or fabric sample to evaluate construction, fit and finish.
Refine & Produce final piece – apply chosen media, embellishments and finishing treatments.
Evaluate – compare outcome with intention and the IGCSE criteria (A‑D) using the Evaluation Checklist .
Research Template (Student Worksheet)
Section Prompt / What to Record
Observation Log
Personal experiences, site visits, fabric handling notes (touch, drape, weight, stretch).
Visual References
Images, sketches, museum pieces, runway photos – annotate source, date and relevance.
Influences & Context
Historical period, cultural tradition, technological innovation, market trend, sustainability considerations.
Design Brief & Intention
Clear statement of aim, target audience, functional requirements, aesthetic goals.
Materials & Techniques
Chosen fibres, finishes, construction methods – justify suitability.
Evaluation Plan
Success criteria, potential challenges, how feedback will be used.
Sample Filled‑In Research Worksheet (Illustrative)
Observation Log: “Cotton jersey feels soft, drapes well, but stretches after wash. Wool felt is dense, retains shape, good for structural panels.”
Visual References: “Image 1 – 1960s Mod mini‑dress (V&A, 2023). Image 2 – Contemporary up‑cycled denim tote (Instagram, @eco‑crafts).”
Influences & Context: “Post‑war British youth culture – bright synthetic fabrics, bold geometry; sustainability trend – use of dead‑stock denim.”
Design Brief & Intention: “Design a reversible tote bag that can be worn as a cross‑body, using up‑cycled denim and organic cotton lining.”
Materials & Techniques: “Re‑purposed denim (dead‑stock), organic cotton lining, hand‑stitched flat‑felled seams, screen‑printed logo, leather strap (up‑cycled).”
Evaluation Plan: “Check seam strength (tug test), colourfastness of screen print, comfort of strap after 5 wears.”
3‑D Modelling Activity (Optional)
Students create a simple digital maquette of their garment silhouette using free software (e.g., SketchUp or CLO 3D).
Purpose: develop spatial awareness of form, scale and movement – a requirement of the “three‑dimensional design” element of the syllabus.
Outcome is saved as an image and attached to the research folder for peer review.
Processes & Techniques (Expanded)
Fabric Construction
Weaving – plain, twill, satin.
Knit – jersey, rib, warp & weft.
Non‑woven – felt, bonded interfacing, recycled PET non‑wovens.
Basic pattern drafting – block creation, grading, technical flats.
Surface Treatment
Dyeing – fibre, yarn, piece; techniques (immersion, tie‑dye, dip‑dye).
Printing – screen, block, digital, batik, resist.
Finishing – heat‑setting, waterproofing, anti‑wrinkle, enzyme washes.
Construction Techniques
Hand‑sewing – plain, French, flat‑felled seams; decorative stitches.
Machine‑sewing – straight‑stitch, zig‑zag, overlock, cover‑stitch.
Edge finishes – hem, bias binding, serging, rolled‑edge.
Basic pattern drafting – creating a sloper, adding seam allowances, grading.
Embellishment
Embroidery – surface, counted (cross‑stitch), free‑hand.
Appliqué – fabric, felt, leather; stitched or glued.
Beading, sequins, fabric paint, laser‑etched details.
Experimental & Mixed‑Media Techniques
Fabric manipulation – pleating, gathering, smocking, fabric‑cutting.
Hybrid media – combine textile with paper, metal, or digital prints.
Up‑cycling – deconstruct & re‑construct existing garments.
Safety, Ethics & Sustainability
Personal protective equipment – gloves, aprons, goggles when handling dyes, chemicals or hot equipment.
Ventilation – ensure adequate airflow during dyeing, printing or laser‑cutting.
Risk‑assessment worksheet (to be completed before any lab work):
Task description
Hazards identified
Control measures (PPE, ventilation, fire extinguisher location)
Sign‑off by teacher.
Responsible sourcing – organic cotton, recycled polyester, locally produced fibres.
Design for durability, repairability and end‑of‑life options (reuse, recycling, composting).
Reflect on social impact – fair‑trade, carbon footprint, cultural appropriation.
Assessment Criteria Overview (IGCSE 0400)
Criterion What Is Assessed
A – Investigation
Research, analysis of influences, clear design brief & intention, organised documentation.
B – Development
Generation, experimentation and refinement of ideas; appropriate use of media and techniques.
C – Realisation
Technical execution, quality of construction, finishing and embellishment.
D – Evaluation
Critical reflection on the outcome, identification of strengths, weaknesses and future improvements.
Sample Assessment Rubric (Bands 1‑5)
Band Criterion A – Investigation Criterion B – Development Criterion C – Realisation Criterion D – Evaluation
5 (Excellent)
Extensive, well‑organised research; clear, insightful brief with strong contextual links.
Highly original ideas; thorough experimentation; techniques chosen with full justification.
Exceptional craftsmanship; flawless seams, finishes and embellishments; professional finish.
Deep, critical reflection; specific, realistic improvement plan; links to research and intention.
4 (Very Good)
Comprehensive research; brief is clear and relevant.
Strong ideas; good range of experimentation; techniques appropriate.
Very good workmanship; minor imperfections not affecting overall quality.
Clear reflection; identifies most strengths/weaknesses; reasonable improvement suggestions.
3 (Good)
Adequate research; brief is understandable.
Logical development; some experimentation; techniques generally suitable.
Good workmanship; some noticeable flaws but overall acceptable.
Basic reflection; mentions strengths/weaknesses with limited depth.
2 (Satisfactory)
Limited research; brief vague.
Ideas lack development; minimal experimentation; technique choice weak.
Workmanship below expected standard; several flaws.
Superficial reflection; few or no improvement ideas.
1 (Insufficient)
No evidence of research; no clear brief.
No development or experimentation; inappropriate techniques.
Poor workmanship; major construction errors.
No evaluation or reflection provided.
Suggested Classroom Activities
Fibre Identification Lab – burn test, feel test, solubility test; record observations in the Observation Log.
Mini Screen‑Printing Project – design a stencil, print on a 15 × 15 cm cotton swatch, evaluate colour fastness.
Capsule Collection Challenge – design three garments, each showcasing a different construction technique (woven jacket, knit dress, up‑cycled bag).
Up‑Cycle Workshop – transform a discarded T‑shirt into a tote bag; document each stage using the Research Template.
Peer Critique Session – use the checklist aligned with criteria A‑D; provide written feedback and set improvement targets.
Digital Design Extension – create a repeat pattern in Illustrator, export for digital textile printing, compare with hand‑cut screen print.
Risk‑Assessment Exercise – complete the risk‑assessment worksheet before any dyeing or laser‑cutting activity; teacher reviews and signs off.
Citation & Bibliography Workshop – teach students how to reference books, journal articles, museum collections and online sources using Harvard style; attach bibliography to the research folder.
3‑D Modelling Session – students build a simple garment maquette in free CAD software; submit a screenshot as part of the development portfolio.
Suggested Diagram
Flowchart of the Design Development Process – from brief & intention → research (Observation Log, visual references, citation) → idea generation (mood board, sketches) → technical development (flats, patterns, 3‑D simulation) → prototype → final production → evaluation (criteria A‑D).